He decided to make a floating trip down the Rhone, and he engaged Joseph Very, a courier that had served him on a former European trip, to accompany him.The courier went over to Bourget and bought for five dollars a flat-bottomed boat and engaged its owner as their pilot.It was the morning of September 20, when they began their floating-trip down the beautiful historic river that flows through the loveliest and most romantic region of France.He wrote daily to Mrs.Clemens, and his letters tell the story of that drowsy, happy experience better than the notes made with a view to publication.
Clemens had arrived at Lake Bourget on the evening before the morning of their start and slept on the Island of Chatillon, in an old castle of the same name.Lake Bourget connects with the Rhone by a small canal.
Letters and Memoranda to Mrs.Clemens, in Ouchy, Switzerland:
Sept.20, 1891.
Sunday, 11 a.m.
On the lake Bourget--just started.The castle of Chatillon high overhead showing above the trees.It was a wonderfully still place to sleep in.
Beside us there was nobody in it but a woman, a boy and a dog.A Pope was born in the room I slept in.No, he became a Pope later.
The lake is smooth as glass--a brilliant sun is shining.
Our boat is comfortable and shady with its awning.
11.20 We have crossed the lake and are entering the canal.Shall presently be in the Rhone.
Noon.Nearly down to the Rhone.Passing the village of Chanaz.
3.15 p.m.Sunday.We have been in the Rhone 3 hours.It is unimaginably still and reposeful and cool and soft and breezy.No rowing or work of any kind to do--we merely float with the current--we glide noiseless and swift--as fast as a London cab-horse rips along--8 miles an hour--the swiftest current I've ever boated in.We have the entire river to ourselves--nowhere a boat of any kind.
Good bye Sweetheart S.L.C.
PORT DE GROLEE, Monday, 4.15 p.m.
[Sept.21, 1891]
Name of the village which we left five minutes ago.
We went ashore at 5 p.m.yesterday, dear heart, and walked a short mile to St.Geuix, a big village, and took quarters at the principal inn; had a good dinner and afterwards along walk out of town on the banks of the Guiers till 7.30.
Went to bed at 8.30 and continued to make notes and read books and newspapers till midnight.Slept until 8, breakfasted in bed, and lay till noon, because there had been a very heavy rain in the night and the day was still dark and lowering.But at noon the sun broke through and in 15 minutes we were tramping toward the river.Got afloat at 1 p.m.
but at 2.40 we had to rush suddenly ashore and take refuge in the above village.Just as we got ourselves and traps safely housed in the inn, the rain let go and came down in great style.We lost an hour and a half there, but we are off again, now, with bright sunshine.
I wrote you yesterday my darling, and shall expect to write you every day.
Good-day, and love to all of you.
SAML.
ON THE RHONE BELOW VILLEBOIS, Tuesday noon.
Good morning, sweetheart.Night caught us yesterday where we had to take quarters in a peasant's house which was occupied by the family and a lot of cows and calves--also several rabbits.--[His word for fleas.]-- The latter had a ball, and I was the ball-room; but they were very friendly and didn't bite.
The peasants were mighty kind and hearty, and flew around and did their best to make us comfortable.This morning I breakfasted on the shore in the open air with two sociable dogs and a cat.Clean cloth, napkin and table furniture, white sugar, a vast hunk of excellent butter, good bread, first class coffee with pure milk, fried fish just caught.
Wonderful that so much cleanliness should come out of such a phenomenally dirty house.
An hour ago we saw the Falls of the Rhone, a prodigiously rough and dangerous looking place; shipped a little water but came to no harm.
It was one of the most beautiful pieces of piloting and boat-management I ever saw.Our admiral knew his business.
We have had to run ashore for shelter every time it has rained heretofore, but Joseph has been putting in his odd time making a water-proof sun-bonnet for the boat, and now we sail along dry although we had many heavy showers this morning.
With a word of love to you all and particularly you, SAML.
ON THE RHONE, BELOW VIENNA.
I salute you, my darling.Your telegram reached me in Lyons last night and was very pleasant news indeed.
I was up and shaved before 8 this morning, but we got delayed and didn't sail from Lyons till 10.3O--an hour and a half lost.And we've lost another hour--two of them, I guess--since, by an error.We came in sight of Vienne at 2 o'clock, several miles ahead, on a hill, and I proposed to walk down there and let the boat go ahead of us.So Joseph and I got out and struck through a willow swamp along a dim path, and by and by came out on the steep bank of a slough or inlet or something, and we followed that bank forever and ever trying to get around the head of that slough.
Finally I noticed a twig standing up in the water, and by George it had a distinct and even vigorous quiver to it! I don't know when I have felt so much like a donkey.On an island! I wanted to drown somebody, but Ihadn't anybody I could spare.However, after another long tramp we found a lonely native, and he had a scow and soon we were on the mainland--yes, and a blamed sight further from Vienne than we were when we started.
Notes--I make millions of them; and so I get no time to write to you.If you've got a pad there, please send it poste-restante to Avignon.I may not need it but I fear I shall.
I'm straining to reach St.Pierre de Boef, but it's going to be a close fit, I reckon.
AFLOAT, Friday, 3 p.m., '91.